Exploring the city draped in snow – Tokamachi

Hidden away in the mountains of Niigata lies a mystical place.In this town, which is one of the snowiest places in Japan, life has taken root and flourished despite the seemingly harsh living environment. Welcome to the City of Tokamachi.

Tokamachi City Museum

The locals call themselves ”Snow Rich”, as indeed when you look upon this town during the winter months it’s clear that their most abundant resource is the snow itself. Throughout history, the people of Tokamachi have used this snow to their advantage and in many ways, the snow has shaped the culture and development of this city.

Before we can dive into the snow, sometimes literally, one must grapple with the unique history of the town and there is no better place than at the Tokamachi City Museum. The museum tells the unique history of Tokamachi and displays interesting artifacts that one can’t see in other areas of Japan, for example, the Flame-style pottery that one can find at the museum. This interesting style of pottery was excavated in Niigata and while in other areas of Japan one can see pottery from the Jōmon period, this special style of flame pottery can only be found in Tokamachi and its surrounding areas. The museum also sheds light on the area’s long history of kimono-making, a skill honed during the winter months as one can quietly weave fabrics in deep snow without sound traveling too far. This industry was the engine of Tokamachi and powered the economy, shaping it into what we see today.

Bijin Bayashi -The Beauty Forest

After diving into the history of the area one can’t help but gain an appreciation for the snow itself, and how it shaped the city and the culture. The people had to learn to live in harmony with the snow, buildings had to be resigned as the weight of packed snow could cause damage to buildings and even cause some to collapse. While heavy snow does have its dangers, it is still intrinsically beautiful, and nowhere does this beauty hold more true than at the Bijin Bayashi, the Beauty forest. Slipping into snow shoes and walking into the forest is a magical experience. It truly felt like leaving the earthy plane and entering a realm more ethereal – almost like being warped into a scene from Ghibli. The snow dampens all the sound making the forest eerily quiet, a perfect location to get lost in thought and reconnect with nature.

Cooking With The Locals

Walking on top of snow is truly exhausting, so it’s no surprise that the people of Tokamachi have created delicious hearty meals packed full of nutrients in order to give people the strength they need for a hard day’s work in the snow. These recipes have been passed down for generations but they are by no means kept a secret, the locals are more than willing to share these recipes with you and show how unique ingredients are used in interesting ways in Tokamachi. The food culture in Tokamachi was driven by the booming kimono industry. As the industry grew and merchants came to Tokamachi to seek high-quality Kimono, omotenashi, or hospitality, also needed to become high-quality. This led to more refined food being served to the valued customers of the region.

During my time in Tokamachi, I was told “You never have to worry about where to eat in Tokamachi as there are no bad restaurants here” – this can be extended to the city itself, there are no bad locations, the city is overflowing with culture, teeming with history and fun to be had around every corner. I’ll see you there, in the city of snow – Tokamachi.